Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is one of the easiest skincare actives to work with at home. It dissolves readily in water at room temperature, needs no heating and works across a comfortable pH range. This guide gives you a simple 5% niacinamide serum with hyaluronic acid, with exact amounts, step-by-step instructions and the checks to run before you use it.
Quick answer: Dissolve 5% niacinamide in distilled water with glycerine, a little hyaluronic acid, D-panthenol and a broad-spectrum preservative. Adjust the pH to 5.5–6.5, bottle it in clean dropper bottles, and stability-test it before regular use.
Why niacinamide?
Formulators use niacinamide in serums, toners, gels and creams aimed at oil balance, a more even-looking skin tone, skin-barrier support and a smoother-looking complexion. Most formulas use 2–5%. Some go up to 10%, but higher is not always better, so 5% is a sensible starting point.
The formula (100 g batch)
All percentages are by weight. For a 100 g batch, the percentage equals the number of grams.
| Phase | Ingredient | % | For 100 g |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Distilled water | 89.60 | 89.60 g |
| A | Disodium EDTA | 0.10 | 0.10 g |
| A | Niacinamide powder | 5.00 | 5.00 g |
| A | D-panthenol (liquid) | 1.00 | 1.00 g |
| B | Glycerine | 3.00 | 3.00 g |
| B | PE 9010 preservative | 1.00 | 1.00 g |
| B | Hyaluronic acid powder | 0.30 | 0.30 g |
| Total | 100.00 | 100.00 g |
To adjust pH if needed, keep a 10% solution of citric acid ready (1 g citric acid dissolved in 9 g distilled water).
What each ingredient does
- Niacinamide: the active ingredient.
- Glycerine: a humectant that helps the skin hold moisture.
- Hyaluronic acid: a humectant that gives the serum a light gel texture and slip. Ours is a high molecular weight form.
- D-panthenol: a moisturising, soothing ingredient.
- Disodium EDTA: binds trace minerals in water, which supports stability and helps the preservative work.
- PE 9010: a broad-spectrum preservative based on phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin, used at 0.5–1.0%. Any product that contains water needs a preservative.
Equipment
- A digital scale that reads 0.01 g
- Two clean glass beakers and a mini mixer or small whisk
- pH strips or a pH meter
- Clean dropper bottles, such as our 15 ml frosted glass bottles
- Gloves, and 70% alcohol to sanitise your tools and bottles (let them dry fully)
Method
- Phase A: weigh the distilled water into a clean beaker. Add the disodium EDTA and stir until dissolved. Add the niacinamide and D-panthenol and stir until the liquid is completely clear. No heating is needed.
- Phase B: in a small beaker, mix the glycerine and PE 9010. Sprinkle in the hyaluronic acid powder and stir into a smooth, lump-free slurry. Mixing it into glycerine first stops it clumping when it meets water.
- Stir Phase A quickly with the mini mixer and pour in Phase B. Keep mixing for 2–3 minutes.
- Cover the beaker and leave it for a few hours, stirring now and then, until the hyaluronic acid has fully hydrated and the serum is smooth, with no lumps.
- Check the pH. Aim for 5.5–6.5. D-panthenol can push the pH up, so if it reads above 6.5, add the citric acid solution one drop at a time, stirring and re-checking after each drop.
- Fill clean dropper bottles and label each with the name and date.
Need help with pH? Read How to Test and Adjust the pH of Homemade Skincare Products.
Variations
- For sensitive skin: lower the niacinamide to 2–3% and add the difference to the water.
- For a thicker serum: raise the hyaluronic acid to 0.5% and take 0.2% from the water.
- Change one thing at a time, so you know what made the difference.
Common mistakes
- Skipping the preservative. Water-based products can grow bacteria and mould even in the fridge. See Do I need a preservative if I keep it in the fridge?
- Lumpy hyaluronic acid. Always pre-mix the powder into glycerine and add it to fast-stirring water.
- Unchecked pH. Very low or very high pH, especially with heat, can turn some niacinamide into nicotinic acid, which may cause temporary skin flushing.
- Using too much. More niacinamide doesn't mean better results, and high levels can irritate some skin.
Test before you use it
A homemade serum has no known shelf life until you test it. Keep small samples at room temperature, in a warm place and in the fridge for 4–12 weeks, and check the appearance, colour, smell and pH every week. If anything changes, discard the batch. Read How do I know my preservative is working? to learn more.
A patch test can show whether your skin reacts, but it does not prove a formula is safe. Use the serum externally only, avoid the eyes, and stop if irritation occurs. If you plan to sell it, you'll need preservative efficacy testing and must follow cosmetic regulations, including licensing and labelling.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C?
Yes, in many formulas. Niacinamide can be used with vitamin C derivatives and often with L-ascorbic acid, but it depends on the pH and the full formula, so test stability first.
Can I skip the preservative if I make small batches?
No. Any product containing water needs a broad-spectrum preservative, whatever the batch size.
Why has my serum turned yellow or cloudy?
It may be contamination, a pH problem or a storage issue. Discard the batch, then review your hygiene, pH and storage before making a new one.
Can I add essential oils for fragrance?
We don't recommend it for a facial serum. Oils won't dissolve in this water-based formula, and fragrance can irritate sensitive skin.
